Cordoba

Snow in the grape vines
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Today we were off and running at 8am for a long travelling day that would see us in Seville tonight. Not long after leaving Madrid we start to encounter light flurries of snow! This is the Mediterranean – we didn’t think it snowed here! Our tour leader Rui tells us that Spain has the second highest elevation in Europe after Austria and it is not uncommon for it to snow.

As we travel along we also see solid black billboards in the shape of a large bull. Rui tells us many years ago these were used for advertising for a company that made Sherry. They were eventually required (for some reason) to remove the advertising, and instead of destroying them, were painted black and are now a feature along the highway. The other thing that doesn’t escape your attention is the rolling hills of olive trees. Surprisingly Rui tells us that Spain is the biggest producer of olive oil in the world. As expected the area is also used for growing grapes with the pressing equipment often used for both crops.

Is it a mosque or is it a Cathedral

Rolling Olive orchards
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After a rest stop mid morning (a little kip for me!) and a lunch stop at road-side restaurants we arrive at our highlight visit of the day – the historical city of Cordoba. A light rain is falling but the temperature is nowhere near as cold as yesterday. We are introduced to our local guide, who takes us through the original walled city Roman gate and weaves us through the cobblestone streets.

We arrive at the Cordoba Mosque or as it is known now - the Cathedral Cordoba. This is just an amazing sight to believe. Excavations have shown that originally on the site sat a Christian temple. This was razed during the Islamic invasion of 785 and eventually replaced by the original Mosque. It was then extended and expanded over ensuing Islamic dynasties until King Ferdinand III reconquered the city in 1236 and reclaimed the mosque for his “Christian cult” use. Eventually in the 1500’s the high alter and choir were constructed under the central minaret while still retaining the remaining original architecture.

Cordoba Roman City Gate
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We first move through the open courtyard that is consistent with other mosques. It is now landscaped beautifully with orange trees.  We then move into the original section of the mosque which is highlighted by its eleven aisles of marble columns which support double arches made from red brick and limestone. The original building was extended lengthwise twice, with each addition replicating the original structure as much as possible. After this an additional 8 aisles of columns were added along the side to turn the long rectangle into a large square. This last Islamic extension was not done in the same quality as the original, with lower grade granite columns and plaster arches that were painted to match the original.

Cordoba House
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In 1236 some 130+ of the central columns were destroyed and the high alter and central choir was built. After this many smaller naves where constructed around the edges of the buildings in dedication of different saints.

It is strange to walk around this building the experience many styles of decoration and architecture, from the gothic ceilings of the central Christian alter to the carved timber and mosaic arches of the Islamic holy area. It is almost hard for your brain to process these two styles melding together.

Cordoba cobblestone streets
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This ended our short visit to Cordoba and we wended our way across the other side of the town, across the bridge spanning the fast running muddy river and out through another Roman turret style gateway. It was then back on the bus and another hour brought us to our hotel in Seville. Here we enjoyed the included buffet dinner at the hotel and looked forward to sleep in and a later start tomorrow.