Docking at Aswan

Aswan Cemetary
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On waking this morning our boat had already docked at Aswan. After breakfast we headed out on the bus at 7:30am for our day of sightseeing. Along the way to our first stop, we passed the large Aswan cemetery, where beautiful mausoleums are built above the family plot. Assem related to us how the local families hire people from the country to tend the graves and for security and in return the family gets to live in the above ground structure.

Aswan Quarry and unfinished Obelisk
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Our first stop of the day was one of the Granite quarries of Aswan, where all granite for the pyramids and temples would have been sourced. In the one we visit, we climb high above an unfinished obelisk that lies on the ground showing the natural crack that halted its forming. Even after an attempt to make a smaller version the crack extended ruining the intended structure. We were told how the large blocks were “cut” from the quarry, by the creation of a line of small holes/shafts, which then had wooden pegs inserted, then water poured over. As the wood expanded, the natural pressure would cause the granite to crack away.

Feluca sail down the Nile

Front Pylons at Temple of Isis
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We then head off to a nearby dock to board a small motor boat to take us to Island of Philae where the Temple of Isis is located. After battling out way through the street hawkers, the 10minute boat ride was very relaxing and the views picturesque. With the completion of the high Aswan Dam creating the massive lake Nasser (currently the largest artificial lake in the world), this temple had to be moved 200m higher and 600m horizontally in order for it not to be flooded. The temple was cut into huge blocks and moved higher then reassembled. You cannot see evidence of this at all which is truely amazing. Off to the side of the temple, there is also a “smaller” structure, which Assem tells us is a bedroom that was built for a roman king who idolised the god Isis, and keeping with belief, could not sleep in the temple so had this structure built. Unfortunately he did not live to see the structure carvings completely finished.

The tall carved columns inside the Temple of Isis
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We returned to the mainland and were then taken to the High Dam wall. Here, we were only allowed 10 minutes to look around as this is high security area, patrolled by many armed policemen. As you can imagine, any attempt to destroy the dam wall would be disastrous for Egypt.

Our next activity of the day is a felucca boat ride up the Nile. As we drift with the wind, Assem tells us the history of the Egyptian Nubians – part Egyptian, part Sudanese. They have the facial features of white Egyptians, but the darker skin of the Sudanese. The majority of the village women make craft items like necklaces and bracelets from beads and camel bones while the men use weaving machines to make pure silk and cotton scarves. The items are then taken to the mainland and sold to tourists by the children of the family in the fashion we now know.

Roman Emperor's bedroom next to Isis Temple
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We transfer to a motor boat which takes us further up the Nile, through the cataracts, where large effaces of stone protrude from the water’s surface causing mini rapids to form. As we pass through this area, our local Nubian guide points out local birds (while texting on his mobile phone). We dock further up stream to visit a Nubian village, but this turns out to be a visit to a single house. As we enter the front door, we are shown a pit nearby that contains baby crocodiles – apparently they chase away bad omens and spirits. We are offered mint tea while the local guide tells us more about the Nubian way of life and their marriage celebration. In the lounge area – an open roofed room with benches all around, a local artist has painted colourful scenes on the walls. They do not have to worry about rain here – apparently it only rains once every nine or ten years!!

Map of Aswan High dam and earlier built lower dam
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Next, the eldest son enters the room carrying a baby crocodile with its mouth tied. We are offered the opportunity to hold the snake, which most of us take up. When I get my hands on this slippery critter, he feels cold and smooth, and I nearly shriek when it starts to squirm in my hands. Joe also has a hold and we both take a photo – as proof – probably the closest I’ll ever get to a crocodile – safely.

We are then told that the eldest son of the house weaves scarves for a living, and we can see the machine in action if we wish. We are also invited to look through numerous scarves and other village craft items that just happen to be available for us to purchase. We are also advised that we can go out into the village if we want, but we do so at our own risk. Camels walk freely here, and we are told a story of a tourist that had her head cracked open when she collided with a camel – forgetting to look both ways before crossing a road. This if course puts us right off, so we take him up on his second offer which is to take the stairs to the roof and look down into the village.

Aswan HIgh Dam creating Lake Nassar
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We do this, and look down onto a long street of craft markets. As soon as the sellers see us they start calling out “obama – we love obama”, and holding up scarves and other items and announcing their price. We duck for safety and return to the ground level. Once loaded back on the boat, we enjoy the motor ride back to our Nile boat which is docked back in Aswan.

There is one more activity today and that is the professional dancing display. Assem warns us that Aswan is not the cultural centre of Egypt, so he cannot promise how good the belly dancer will be that has been arranged by the boat. Well, he was right, it was not good and I am not even going to put a photo on the blog. I think our German tourist last night did a better job. The belly dancer is followed then by the twirling man (I forget the official name). These guys put themselves into a trance and just keep going around and around and around in a circle. After a while, the lights go out and he flicks a magic switch and his colourful skirt turns splits into two with both levels decorated with blue small blue lights. He keeps going and the top section detaches and he continues to swirl this above his head while the lower skirt remains at his waist. I don’t know about him but he is making me real dizzy! He then walks around among the guests twirling the top level above our heads. When the dance ends – he just walks out – not affected or dizzy at all which is amazing.  That ended a full day of activities and I am happy to hit the sack.